Kelantan Darul Naim, Culture and Heritage

                                  

Kelantan, meaning "Land of Lightning", occupies the north-east part of the country. It shares borders with Perak , Terengganu, Pahang and Thailand. The State is renowned for traditional handicrafts such as gold and silver jewellery, and traditional pastimes such as top-spinning, puppet plays and kite-flying. The State capital is Kota Bharu.

The ancient arts which once thrived throughout the country during breaks in the planting and harvesting seasons, and during the monsoon breaks, have all but disappeared from the west coast states. But in the east coast in general, and in Kelantan in particular, popularity in these art forms is as strong as ever.

The Mak Yong, a Malay dance drama which was performed exclusively for sultans and territorial chiefs until the turn of the century, combines dance, opera, drama and comedy. When royal patronage ceased, Mak Yong left the confines of the palace and became popular among the rural folk. The main cast of Mak Yong is made up of women, consisting of four leading actresses who play the king, a young prince, the queen (Mak Yong) and a princess. Male actors are included for comic relief. Mak Yong performers are accompanied by musicians who play the violin-like rebab, the gendang (a double-headed drum) and the tetawak (a gong). A male shaman or bomoh, follows a Mak Yong troupe to ensure the success of its performances.

Other Kelantanese court dances include the Tarian Payang, named after fishing boats and traditionally danced on the beach while waiting for fishermen to return, and the Tarian Asyik. The Tarian Garong is an up-tempo dance performed by five couples in a circle, whilst the Tarian Piring, a graceful dance symbolizing the offering of gifts to God on a small plate, the piring, is another popular dance.

The Wayang Kulit, or shadow puppet drama, is said to have originated from Java in the 14^th Century, although the shadow play in Kelantan is particularly eclectic, combining not only Javanese, but also Chinese, Indian and Siamese influences. The repertoire includes enacting tales from the great Indianepics the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, together with tales on local folklore.

Behind a small raised stage supporting a large white screen sits the Tok Dalang, or master puppeteer. Sticking the buffalo-hide-and-stick puppets into banana stems positioned behind the screen, he then narrates the tale as he ´manipulates´ the puppets. A lamp, suspended between the screen and the puppeteer, causes the silhouettes of these puppets to dance on the screen. The narration is complemented by a small traditional orchestra consisting mainly of percussion instruments.

A popular musical pastime is the beating of the harvest drum, the rebana besar. This drum measures 60 centimetres in height and one metre in diameter. The drum is placed on its side and is struck with the palm of the hand. In common with the other northern States, popular traditional musical forms include the religious songs and chants known as "Berzanji" and "Qasidah". The "Hadrah" which is an Islamic chant, is performed with dances and musical accompaniment. Singing and reparteeing in doggerel form is popular in Kelantan. This musical form is known as "Dikir Barat".

Musical instruments played in Kelantan include the rebana besar (big drum), the rebana ubi, the violin-like rebab, the gendang (a double-headed drum) and the tetawak (agong), in addition to a whole host of percussion musical instruments..

Malay marriages are based on Islamic laws, with elements from the pre-Islamic past such as the "Bersanding Ceremony", where the couple are treated as royals for a day, and the dyeing of fingers, which is an old Malay tradition.

Kelantan is truly a great Malay cultural centre, which keeps the skills and traditions of a bygone age in an age of increasing commercialism and modern appliances usage. The people of the State produce a wide variety of art, craft and handicraft items, which are not only pleasing to the eye, but are also functional and environmentally friendly.

Amongst the woven handicrafts are those which use the mengkuang leaf and bamboo strips as a base. The products resulting from these raw materials are mats, bags, hats and conical food covers. Then there woven handicrafts relying on cloth. Amongst these cloths are batik, silk and Kain Songket. All three of these produce fine examples of craftsmanship and design. Using their skills in woodworking, the Kelantanese produce detailed woodcarvings and extend to traditional methods of boat-building, evident especially near the town of Tumpat.

They also produce intricate designs on silverware, for which the State is justly famous. Kelantan is one of the very few States in Malaysia which still retains the skills of its´silversmiths. Finally, to serve and preserve the pursuits of traditional games and pastimes in the State, there are excellent craftsmen in Kelantan producing beautiful kites andtops both for individual pleasure and for competitive purposes.

Kite-flying is hugely popular here, not only among the boys but also the men. The most popular kite, or "wau"., is the moon kite, so named because of its crescent-shaped tail. Competitions are regularly held, and the winners are judged not only on how the kite flies, but also on the shape, colour and ornamentation, as well as on the grace with which the kite can be manuvered

Top-spinning in Kelantan is basically an adult affair. Contests are held between pairs of men to determine how long one´s top, or "gasing", can spin. After the initial throw of the spin, it is expertly transferred to a stand, where it is left spinning until it stops.

Finally, there is the traditional pastime of rearing birds for their singing prowess, and then entering them in bird singing contests. This pastime is popular in the northern States as a whole. The bird normally used for this purpose in Kelantan is the merbok. Bull-fighting, which used to be a very popular pastime in Kelantan during the past, is now banned.

Our tour of the State begins at Kota Bharu, the northernmost city on the East Coast and the capital of Kelantan. A bustling city, Kota Bharu sprawls along the eastern bank of the fertile Kelantan River and is the hub of the rice basin. It serves as the seat of the royal sultanate and is a convenient gateway to Thailand. The nearby border crossing betweenRantau Panjang and Sungai Golok is a popular destination for those who wish to buy goods from across the border.

In the center of town, along Jalan Tengku Chik is the Pasar Besar (Central Market), the hub of the town and site of arguably the most colourful market in Malaysia. Witness the entrepreneurial skills and diligence of the Kelantanese women, as the majority of the business here is conducted by them. Dressed in batik, with their heads veiled, these women haggle over prices whilst chewing on betel nut. They sell a whole range of items, from fresh fruits and vegetables to cakes and sweetmeats; from spices and preserved food to batik and handicrafts. The vibrant market is housed in a modern octagonal building and is a delight to the senses, as the clash of colours and sounds compete with irresistible aromas for your attention. Savour the entire spectacle bathed in the yellow light which streams through a translucent roof. Opposite the Central Market is a vacant lot which at night plays host to numerous food-stall operators. Partake of some of Kelantan´s finest cuisine as you dine under the stars!

Situated between Jalan Hilir Kota and Jalan Hulu Kota and surrounded by high wooden walls, is the Istana Balai Besar (Palace of the Large Audience Hall). Built in 1844, thispalace boasts of elaborately-carved gates and is still used for ceremonial and legislative purposes.

Across the road from the World War II Memorial Museum is the Muzium Islam (Islamic Museum). A Pattani-style tiled roof crowns this beautiful old wooden building which displays information tracing the history of Islam in the state and whose exhibits include photographs of the personal belongings of the Prophet Muhammad.

The War Museum (Bank Kerapu) lies closes to the river and has the distinction of being housed in the oldest brick building in the State. Built in 1912, it was formerly occupied by a bank. This museum contains basically a collection of memorabilia relating to the Japanese occupation of Malaya during World War II.

Finally, across the road from Istana Batu is the Kampung Kraftangan (Handicraft Village), an imposing building fashioned in traditional Kelantanese style. The state´s renowned crafts are on display and exhibitions are held on subjects such as ceramics., batik-painting and silk-weaving. Information on programmes are available from the Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Sultan Ibrahim.

The Gelanggang Seni (Cultural Centre) situated along Jalan Sultan Mahmud, showcases the State´s cultural heritage. Listen to the sounds of the rebana(drums) coming from small huts as colourful "wau" or kites float above you in the sky. On the green, "gasing" or top-spinning experts hold court. Other performances include the Wayang Kulit ( a shadow puppet play ), the Mak Yong (a Malay dance drama) and the Silat (Malay form of self-defense).

Next to the Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Sultan Ibrahim is the State Museum. Exhibited are a wide array of artifacts, crafts, traditional instruments, paintings and photographic displays all connected in some way or another with the state of Kelantan.

Kota Bharu is surrounded by a patchwork of little ´kampungs´. Located within the fertile Kelantan Basin, these villages lie between rice fields and fruit orchards and are linked to each other by little roads. About 10 kilometres south of Kota Bharu is Kampung Nilam Puri, home to Masjid Kampung Laut, reputed to be Malaysia´s oldest mosque. Themosque, built about 300 years ago by Javanese Muslims in grateful thanks after a narrow escape from pirates, used to be located on the banks of the Kelantan River but considerable damage to the wooden building brought on by the annual monsoon floods caused it to be removed here in 1968.

Tumpat & District

About 15 kilometres north of Kota Bharu is Tumpat, a major agricultural area bordering Thailand and which is the final stop on the east coast railway line. The Thai influence here is very noticeable as this border town is home to Kelantan´s Thai Buddhist minority and there are several Thai Buddhist Temples or "Wats" in the area. At Wat Photivihan, a 40 metre-long reclining Buddha is claimed to be one of the largest in Southeast Asia.

Time-warped Tumpat has hardly gone through changes in decades. The old wooden railway station is still very much the town´s central point of focus and many original shophouses still line the same road. Tumpat is long renowned for producing skilled boat-builders, and the beaches of Tumpat provide the visitor with an opportunity to see these master craftsmen fashion elaborately carved shapes of mythical birds or demons onto the bows of their boats.

North of Tumpat is Pantai Sri Tujuh, a popular beach and boating lagoon, and venue of the International Kite Festival. Watch as fishermen cast a huge net offshore and then haul it in by hand.

A few kilometres from Pantai Sri Tujuh, right on the Thai border, is Pengkalan Kubur. An immigration check-point for Thai-bound travellers, Pengkalan Kubur has car-ferry services which cross the river to Tak Bai in Thailand. The other border town, Rantau Panjang, southwest of Kota Bharu, is popular with bargain hunters. On the Thai side is Golok.

Kuala Krai & District

About 70 kilometres south of Kota Bharu lies Kuala Krai. There is a small zoo here specialising in local wildlife. A river trip from here will take you to Dabong, two hours´ journey to the southwest. The trip will take you through dense jungle. A short walk from Dabong leads to caves and waterfalls. Dabong is on the jungle railway line.

Gua Musang & District

Gua Musang (Musang Cave) lying on the edge of the massive Taman Negara about 185 kilometres south of Kota Bharu, owes its name to the caves in the limestone outcrop towering above the railway station. Although rarely seen here nowadays, the musang, a native civet cat with long fur and a long curling tail, used to inhabit these caves.

This small town makes a good centre for exploring caves, trekking or making a riverboat safari. Trekkers can climb the 898 metres tall Gunung Ayam, once home to the legendary Kelantanese Queen.

http://allmalaysia.info/2009/03/23/kelantan-steeped-in-tradition/